Alpstein Säntis (canton St.Gallen) / Schweiz
"Kurzschluss" VIII Kreuzberg Westwand, VII- 150m 29.Mai.1998
Climbing partner: Walter Hardersdorf (München)
In spite of its height is rather small and compared to other
alpine summits not classified correctly as an Alps mountain.
In general the mountain course is more likely steep and the valleys are
The Alpstein is an ideal - sometimes also fastidious - sport climbing area.
The contigious mountain Scharfbergwand West Face and South Face, a
culmination of classical coronations like "no water, no moon" (4 SL, 9/9+),
is of course still far over my abilities but nevertheless one of the best
climbs in this area.
It was end of May already but there was still a spell of bad weather. Walter
(a climbing partner from Munich) proposed climbing at Säntis.
Well, I had no idea what he was up for. Walter has been there many times,
it's not too far away from Munich. In this weather we were the only party on
the mountain. Things get nasty really quick when bad weather rolls in.
Because of deep snow, a mountain hut was closed too.
No one was there. Lonely, cloudy, cold, grey skies. I was not sure about
what I was doing. I'm not used to climb on mountains in such a bad weather!
Although it may seem absurd in this situation: the south wall - blending
with a second crossing mountain - was giving a beautiful route. A VI-/A1
climb streching to a length of 300 meters. But there is a long approach in
purchase. So we climbed I-Kreuzberg "air lane", I-Kreuzberg "old north" and
VIII-Kreuzberg - west wall "short-circuit".
Our bivouac was about half way to a parking place.
One hour to walk instead of three hours to the parking lot. We slept in his
Car, which was an old Volkswagen Model Golf II with two doors, but one door
couldn't open. In fact there was not much room in this car for two persons
to sleep.His car was fifteen years old or probably older, stink of diesel.
I couldn't hardly sustain the smell! The night was not very comfortable.
The climbing was moderately,
the weather also. May be mountain trekking is quite worthwhile there.
But for me it was just a nice times to get know the area.
- Nützlich Tipps zum :
- K.K oder Friends Gr 1 bis 3 sind nützlich.