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The Italian Allessabdro Gogna was a very efficiently mountain climber and he
was legendary. His name emerged again and again in the international scene -
K2, Lhotse, Annapurna, Matterhorn North Face, in dolomites or elsewhere.
It has been concerning 150 first ascents he could note down into his logs. At
the beginning of 1987, I climbed with Stefan at the Corna di Medale (Lecche
lake in Italy) via Gogna - 5+/A1 or 8. Since then I already knew that his
routes are extraordinary. Exposed and sustained climbing made his route
serious. "via Gogna" is one of the most popular routes in Marmolada di
Rocca. Others like, "via Vinatzer", "Messner", "modern times", "Don Quixote"
and "way through the fish" are bold, too. However, "via Gogna" is composed
of altogether 28 pitches and the upper part of the wall is constantly
sustained. Although enough pegs have been existing, exertion and tiredness
were noticeable. The climbing grade was not beyond our abilities so far ,
but awfully long climbing pitches made a huge difference.
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