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Salbitschijen 2981 m / Urner Alpen / Swizerland

"Salbitschijen - West ridge" VI A0, 1000 m

Climbing partner: Cartsten Klug (Mainz)

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I've been on "Göschener Tal" many times. There are a lot of great climbs. "Sandbalm", "Gandschijen", Salbitschien", single or multi pitches, steep slabs, face climbing and trad crack climbing for what you have to bring all of your gear. I think, it's one of the best granite climbing areas in central Switzerland. By the way you can find a scenic landscape with quiet enviroments for relaxing at "Göschenertalsee", just watching the beautiful snow mountain "Dammastock". It seemed that the process of time was lapsing in this region. "Salbitschijen West ridge" is a long route, 30 pitches or more to climb over never ending towers with a lot of rappels in between. It's takes so much time to get prepared for abseiling or starting to climb. The question of time is one of the most important for the "West Ridge". Summit (2981m) and ridge are high, so I advise you not to have a forced bivouac in a cold night on the mountain. Climbing with minimum equipment is essential for velocity. But you can escape from between the tower. A day of uncertain weather, we were on "Salbitschijen-bivouac" (2400 m). No one there, except us. The climb was great and abseiling very exposed. It took us about 15 hours to finish and descend to the parking place. It was a long hard day. I was so exhausted that right after one beer I fell down to the ground.

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© 2003 Minoru Otsuki.