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Gorges du Verdon / France

"Pichnible" VII- A0 or 7B, 200 m

climbing partner: Dirk Danzenberg (Wiesbaden)


With all due respect the Gorge du Verdon was the birthplace of sports climbing during the 1980's and '90's. It's an ideal place for climbers from northern countries who complain about poor sun in the north - basking and perspiring is guaranteed. I was there in September, the sun was still burning and merciless. You can have everything from single pitch routes to long trad routes. Everyone feels attracted by this incredible limestone, which has become a point of reference for its quality worldwide. But you have to rappel first to the depths of the Gorge - airy and scary, too. Sometimes ropes are gibbeted on old trees. Classics like Pichenibule, Ctuluh, Gwendal, Debiloff Proffondicum, l'Ange en décomposition, Surveiller et Punir, Papy on sight, Les Specialistes... the list is endless. However, the crux of "Pichenibule" (7B) was really polished or I was excessively sweating. I was not able to make one FREE Move, not even a bit! Nowadays the steep Verdon walls are no longer a stage for the world's elite. Their eyes look elsewhere, towards the super-overhangs. But the attraction of these technical climbs set in magnificent environments, is beard in my mind - a climber's dream. At least once in a lifetime.

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  • Nützlich Tipps zum Verdon Schlucht :
  • 2 x 50 Meter Seil

© 2003 by Minoru Otsuki.