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Marmolata South Face / Dolomiten / Italien
"Vinazer and Messner Direkt" VI+ A0, 750 m
First ascent: G.B. Vinatzer, E. Castiglioni in 1936; Diretta Messner: R. Messner in 1969
Climbing partner: Carsten Klug (Mainz)
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We climbed the Via Vinatzer lower part at least 16 Pitches and combination with "Messner" variation upper part 11 Pitches. It's long climbing day and we are totally exhausted when we reached to the Punta Rocca 3309m.
So we were in a great hurry to reach last cable car, hopefully not struggle my own feet to descend.
In vain! The last one has
been going away and the station emergency room was fully covered with snow.
Thus we had to descent over the north flank!
Although from below the face looks bare and
some parts covered with Rocks and debris.
The slope was steep and awkward in Jogging shoes, Some climbers would rappel there, but you have
to sacrifice expensive icescrews! Fortunately we had Grödel. A distinctive
descent without Crampon or without pickle would mean to suffer. After 200 Meter or so,
the slope became slowly flatter.
We dragged
our tired bodies to Passo Fedaia, it became really dark and dipping fog
covered the mountain, not even 10 meters visible. Deep in the night, no more
cars passed by. What could we do? Suddenly a car popped up in the darkness.
And we waved like wounded soldiers! We have had all of our climbing gear
like harness, helmet and ropes on ourselves. Our figures were really
signalising being in a bad shape. A young lady smiled, as she opened the
door of her car. Wow! That's good luck! I think, she occasionally has had
situations like this before, finding climbers doubtfully strolling around in
the night. She took us to Malga Ciapela camping. We were saved!
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We have seen other climber on the "Moderne Zeiten"
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The Messner route was climbed in 1969 via an impressive series of vertical slabs and upper part ist very steep Crack.
It was the first route on the open face, very scary with little protection. At that time Messer climbed with a hard boots.
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We have seen two climbing parties. One is a "Gogna" and other is "Moderne Zeiten"
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© 2003 by Minoru Otsuki.
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