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  • Brenta / Italy / Aug.2011
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    To me is the Brenta where the time stand still, the last stop of my wishing list. The shaping rock of the Brenta is the extremely hard main dolomite which is present in this mountains in a power up to about 3000 metres range. At the Alpin orogeny was the sedimentary rock not as limestone or slate bended, but broken, what gave the rugged character with its vertical towers and massive cliffs area. What look so renew is the big signposts and Via ferrata wire, so that you never lost on the way. We are on the rout Graffer edge of Campanile Basso, striking free standing rock Tower, such as a Rusty iron firmly built submarine from August 1934, offer everthing one desires. Some of old stance pitons are probably from 1934. But pitons are rare and troublesome to find route, very precious experience, dealing with risks in a timely and sustainable manner is essential. From the Via dell Bocchette, the well known Via Ferrata in Brenta, a tourist watching on a ledge of Cima Brenta Alta, as we climbing high up to the huge tower, dozens of people passing by this mornig. The time spirit, most of touirist would never known mountaineering history from year 1934. Why should they know about it? No, I feel more like an Musium visiter, on this mountain, so to speak or perhaps a nostalgia enthusiast. But only I can tell those guys were really tough at that time. With Hemp rope and leather shoes, no harnes, no Helmet, climbed isolated mountains, and many live are lost, cos of the national pride and struggle for own name.
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  • Filnale Ligure / Italy / Jun.2011
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    There should be a nice week for montain tour,i thought. But it was not. Chamonix was gray clouds covered and reported the next day up to 70 cm of snow. Weather forecasts have failed completely. We sit in a lousy hotel on the main road, make a long face to drizzle outside and wait. No, I can not resign and go home. We should go somewhere else, may be Finale Ligure has good weather! Mediterranean is always my favourite place. Finale Ligure, I've been here about twenty five years ago. Since then, not much changed in Finale Borgo. The Bar centrale, the small sports shop and the best pizzeria on the beach. What the only difference is that the number of routes and many new climbing areas are come up. Routes exist now over 2,000! We spend our nights in comfortable Hotel rooms with sea view, but in an area of Personal! 25 EUR per person with fabulous breakfasts,plus a blue sky and sun! Temperature rises to 27 degrees! In the Bric Pianarella is shade till in the afternoon. After a hard day of climbing is always pleasure with nice coffee and ice cream at the Bar Centrale. Mmmmm. Tasty! Same as twenty five years ago!
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  • Capo San Vito / Sicily / Italy / Apr.2011
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    Happy Easter! At the beginning of April we (nine of us) flew to Palermo, promising good weather and nice climbing. We stayed at camping El Bahira dirct blow the Scogliera di Salinella, which is more then four kilometer long wall, exisited over 200 route from 4c to 8a. The beach is just few hundred meter away and this time in year has beautiful exotic flora and fauna cover whole area. A littel green lizard, the Green Anole are seeing everywhere. Falcon flying over the rocky tip. Real National geographic exist here! In a rest day hiking up to Zingaro National Park is also nice activity, inspiring to care about planet! We drove up to Erice, saw a very nice view of see, Trapani, vineyard and olive grove. We've enjoyed very much Mediterranean Atmospheres. You can find a new climbing Capo San Vito Topo blow.
    www.bolt-products.com and www.freeclimbinginsicily.it
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  • Stok Kangri (6137m) / Ladakh / India / Sep-Oct.2010
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    Ladakh. The bizarre mountains and sparsely populated. The Himalayas provide superb opportunities for trekking in a wide variety of landscapes. Because this country was so difficult to reach, has developed a unique culture here, the residents have remained true to this day. I am second time here. More go to the villages, feels more friendly of ladakhis. Coronation of travels was solo climbing on Stok Kangri (6137m) In the late September, the end of season is less trekker on the way to the height mountains. My longing for unknown mountain was bigger then just a photo shouting of monasteries. The mountain has to be defeat it however not a holy Gompas. My heart lies on the unknown mountains not on reprieved Stupas, but the contrast between lonely mountains and perched on top of a huge rock with a temples connects something very special in the landscape of Ladakh. After a while, stay in Ladakh begins to understand why people right here in this seemingly limitless expanse and still have a straight reaches of spirituality that is hard to find elsewhere in the world.
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  • "Gonda" Oberreintaldom / Wetterstein / 01.Aug.2010
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    There is so many legend in our mountaineering history and i have almost half of my life accompany with great mountain climbers. From the Alps to the Himalayas. Every time i feel great honour to climb such a legendary route. Short weekend trip to Oberreital. This is my first time in the area. We want to climb the "Gonda". (Saxon climber: Karl-Heinz Gonda is one of the greatest talents of the post-war period. Undoubtedly the best crack and free climber. In the summer of 1951 Gonda came back on the Oberreintalhütte. He earned his money as a carrier. His first ascent of the North dihedral succeeded on Oberreintaldom . It was his biggest alpine New tour, the climbers still inspires respect!) So in Chronicle newspaper. In the hut-logbook, we found only two accents of "Gonda" in this year. Every pitch is sustain and decent is a bit confusing, but all together such a magnificent Alpine route! "Gonda" is like the coolst free climbing route I've ever done.
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  • Morroco / Apr.2010
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    In April travelling with friends in Morocco, we had very much fun! We flew to Casablanca and took a night train to Marrakech. Within 10 hours we were on a warm ground. We rented car and off we went! Firstly we climbed in the deep and impressive Todra George. You can chose sunny side or shade in George any time of year. All of single-pitch we climbed are well bolted and couldn't be resisted. Hiking up to mountain plateau was also nice. After Todra George, we organized trekking tour to Jbel Sarhro, where a huge Conglomerate prehistoric fortress and towers positioned high up in the mountains, truly magnificent. Afterwards we drove down to southern Morocco N 9, until the end of road, then we drove in to the desert about 60 Km by Jeep and where start the Sahara desert, a world of dunes and wind, about 100 meter high sand hills bleak landscape, drifting sands and endless wastelands to behold. It's absolutely desolated but fascinating. We saw many things on the way in Morocco, except mirage. Many old ruined villages constructed by red-brown rammed clay, beautiful green Oasis with Palm trees and blue waters, barren country with the sun on the horizon, all Medina were lively and busy. Morocco is simply picturesque!
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  • Hampi / India - Mar.2010
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    During this winter time I spend a quite laudable holiday in Goa. Afterwards i travelled to Hampi in Karnataka, where declared as UNESCO heritage city. The ruins of Hampi reveal the magnificence of a great city and a great empire. It is really a big area! Lots of rocks! The boulders form the geography of this area is wild spread. Bouldering in some of the best granite rocks in India and in such a beautiful surroundings! Hampi is something very special to me, to touch to the rocks with deep ancient history. Crash Pad is available at Goan Corner Restaurant in Virupapur Gaddi (opposite side from Hampi Bazaar)
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